In ancient times, different cultures used beauty rituals for skincare and protection. Around 350,000 years ago, early humans began using a natural pigment, ochre, as a cosmetic. Evidence of ochre use has been found at paleolithic archeological sites, notably in the burial grounds of Sungir, Russia. Here, skeletal remains adorned with ochre and mammoth ivory beads suggest a deep cultural significance attached to embellishment. It indicates that even in prehistoric times, individuals recognized the importance of personal appearance and the symbolic value of beauty.
Ancient Egypt: a golden age for cosmetics
In antiquity, as early as 10,000 BC, Egyptians were using oils and ointments for skincare, to promote well-being and health.
Ash-paste exfoliants, red blush made from poppies, sacred oils, unguents, kohl, henna and other cosmetics were used by the Ancient Egyptians for esthetic, medical and religious reasons. Makeup palettes were buried with the dead for use in the afterlife. The Egyptians also practiced synthetic chemistry and developed perfumes based on the olfactive pyramid. The Eye of Horus, lined with kohl, symbolized integrity, health and salvation.
Europe: the art of fragrance
While the art of perfume-making originated in ancient Mesopotamia, modern-day perfume is synonymous with the European continent. Following the emergence of perfumery during the reign of Louis XIV in France, it has become deeply ingrained in French and European heritage and culture. The creators of some of the world’s most prestigious scents are based in Paris, while further south in the hills of Provence-Alps-Côte d’Azur, Pays de Grasse is known as the perfume capital of the world. Today, fragrances are perceived as an essential part of life in Europe.
When lipstick adds color to life
Lipstick has long played a valuable role in culture and society. It is thought that the ancient Sumerians of Mesopotamia (now south-central Iraq) were the first to add color to their lips and there is evidence that other civilizations followed suit. The first commercial lipstick was created in Paris in 1884, formally creating an iconic means of self-expression.
An olfactory renaissance
Since the health crisis, where the loss of the sense of smell, known as anosmia, affected almost 53% of people affected by the virus, our world has become aware of the essentiality of fragrance. Today, our world is intoxicated with perfumes. Sales are soaring – with perfumery experiencing the fastest growth in the entire beauty industry (+15% by 2022). This new olfactory passion is particularly appealing to the younger generation, new markets attracted by sophisticated perfumery (China), and fast-growing collections of niche fragrances.
On the Tik-Tok platform, the hashtag #PerfumeTok has more than 6 billion views to date. Under the influence of social networks, online purchases are exploding (13% of sales in France). Among Gen Z in search of sensorially, olfactory codes are changing, they are moving towards less gendered, more persistent ‘juices’, with unique, strong, and bold signatures that dress and singularize a personality.
In Europe, nearly 89% of people believe that a fragrance or aroma can have an impact on their well-being, according to a study conducted by the Givaudan group in 2019. And 68% of women consider fragrance to be an important or very important part of their daily lives, according to an IFOP/Cosmetics Europe study in 2022.
Symbolic armor
During World War II, cosmetics were rationed in the U.K., except for lipstick! Winston Churchill recognized its positive impact on morale. The Red Cross even handed it out to women serving in the army. Helena Rubenstein created the ‘Regimental Red’ shade for the U.S. military
Self-care: a vital mental tool
Skincare rituals have evolved throughout history, reflecting the cultural narratives of beauty, wellness, and self-care. In recent times, the significance of skincare routines has grown, particularly during and after the COVID-19 pandemic. In today’s more rational world, where we experience almost everything through a screen, we are perhaps losing a vital link to our senses. But using cosmetic products can help us reconnect us to a world of sensations: they reintroduce touch, texture and smells in our lives. They add a little colour to our grey and sometimes mundane existence and anchor us in ourselves.
Beauty rituals can act to soothe, invigorate and centre us. These rituals not only help maintain physical health and well-being, but also serve as a vital tool for mental health, offering stability and structure during challenging times. 80.9% of Europeans consider skincare products as important or very important in their daily life (Cosmetics Europe 2022).
Beauty brings magic to our lives
By looking in the mirror we can gain self-confidence, self-esteem, objectivity and discernment. Beauty opens us also a vast space for creativity. As self-artists, we enhance and embellish our own lives with skincare, blush and brushes. By taking care of ourselves, we accept our uniqueness. The quest for beauty immerses us in a full, vibrant and harmonious relationship with the world. It has the power to bring magic to our lives.
